Wednesday, July 4, 2012

Hangin' in Hoi An


Hoi An is a lovely little town just 20 minutes south of Da Nang... it's one of the few historic towns to have survived Vietnam's many recent wars essentially unscathed.  Once a major port and trading center between the 15th and 19th centuries, its river then silted up in the late 19th century (trading traffic was diverted to nearby Da Nang) and the town was basically preserved as is, with over 800 historical buildings still intact.


Now the town is a major tourist draw, having been designated as a UNESCO World Heritage site.  It's agreat place to walk around because the central part of the town is cut off for motorized vehicles, so you can do some serious strolling and sight-seeing.  Plus, it ain't bad just sitting and drinking some ca phe sua da or a beer by the riverside.


Even though it's a tourist town, it's still got a bustling central market and lots of locals going about their business:



We stayed in a cute little hotel, the Ha An hotel, which has a French-style courtyard full of palm trees and bamboo.  Plus the door to our room was flanked by 2 be-bowed mandarin orange trees and these funny little guard dogs:


Climbing up to the top of our hotel gave us a view of Hoi An's rooftops and the mountains in the distance:


Our hotel, all lit up for the evening, viewed through my fogged-up camera lens:


I loved this guy below, just smokin' a cigarette, shirtless, above one of Hoi An's many tailors.  At some point Hoi An became known as a spot for fabric and tailors... since then, over 500 tailors have opened up shop in the small town, all offering you the "best price" and responding "maybe later!," "happy hour!!," or "why not?!" when you decline.  Tim wanted to have a suit made and I wanted to have a blazer I like copied, and yet we ended up walking out of the tailor's shop (recommended both by our hotel and the Lonely Planet book) with 3 suits and 2 blazers.  Oops!    Hoi An is also known for custom-made shoes... we ended up with 5 pairs between the two of us.  

The best part of our experience at the tailor, though, was when the seamstress asked if Tim wanted extra room in the waist of his suit pants for beer.  Then she asked how many beers Tim could drink... 10?  She informed us, very matter of factly, that her husband could drink 20.  NBD.


We captured this woman pulling some water from the well located just in front of the town's central market.  Is it one of the special cao lau wells?  I don't know, but let's pretend it is, because it's the only one I have a photo of:



Walking around Hoi An during the day was a bit brutal because of the heat.  Most of the locals seemed to disappear mid-day to hang out in a hammock.  We probably should have done the same, and yet there we were, walking around, sweating our asses off and quickly becoming dehydrated (or as they call it in Indonesia, "possessed by spirits").  Best cure for dehydration?  Drinking coconut water while sitting on a tiny, tiny stool:


Cyclos, cyclos everywhere.  These were taking a break from the heat of the day:


This lady brought each of these large, bamboo bird cages out to the porch, one at a time, feeding each one and talking to them.  Pretty cute:



The architecture in Hoi An was really beautiful... big welcoming store fronts with apartments above, all painted this pretty goldenrod color, cool detail scattered throughout.  Plus the greenery everywhere...

I just thought these ladies were cute, chatting at their mini-shop outside another one of Hoi An's tailors. And the women below, all in matching conical hats, taking a breather in front of one of Hoi An's many souvenir shops (


Below is an example of what most young women in Vietnam wear during the day... regular clothes (usually skinny jeans and a little blouse) supplemented by several items intended to protect their skin from the sun.  My photo captured the 2 basic varieties:  1) on the left, the thin, zip-up, hoodie jacket with flaps coming off the end of the sleeves to cover your hands, and 2) on the right, hat, bandit scarf to protect face and neck, full-length silk gloves.  Hard to tell from this photo, but most women also wore thick stockings or socks with their shoes or sandals.  Sun protection is quite a priority for Vietnamese ladies... not so much for the gents, who jaunted around town in pretty much whatever.



Diving the Cham Islands

Fishing nets and a tourist boat in Hoi An harbor.
While in Hoi An, Tim and I decided to take a day trip to the Cham Islands (a group of 8 sparsely populated islands off the coast) for some scuba diving.  The weather was not ideal (it had rained the day before and was still drizzling as we headed out on the boat), but the scenery was nice anyway. 

Cloudy skies.
We were required to wear our lifevests on the dive boat as we left the harbor... but not on the rest of the trip or on the way back in.  Hmmm.
The turtle-shaped island where we did our first dive.

 Cham Island Diving seemed to be French-owned, or at least managed, so many of the Vietnamese boat crew spoke French to us, which was kinda funny.  It was particularly interesting  when the water was rough and we were trying to get back on a small boat from shore- the boat was being lifted up and subsequently dropped about 8 feet with each wave, all while we were trying to climb aboard.  The crew was yelling at us quite emphatically,  "Allez, allez!!!" and "Asseyez toi!!"  I understood what they were saying, recalling my high school French, but I think some of the Aussie divers were a little confused.

Fishing boats in the harbor at Cham Islands.
Difficult to see here, but these were big military gunner boats, trolling the Vietnamese coast, perhaps because of Vietnam's tension with China over the South China Sea?
I didn't get any underwater photos this time, as it was just me, Tim and our French dive instructor and none of us had underwater cameras.  We did see some cool stuff underwater, though:

Sunday, July 1, 2012

Vietnam: Foodie Paradise

The food in Vietnam is so good.  So good.  Tim and I were in heaven.  You can get high end, fancy French-influenced food, or you can get tasty, fresh and really cheap street food, too.  Plus everything in between...

Here's a taste (well, not literally) of what we ate in Vietnam, organized by city.  This only covers a very small portion of the delicious stuff we ate... it was hard to remember to take a photo before digging in because everything looked so good!

Da Nang:
 
Dragon fruit, dragon fruit everywhere.  We ate it daily, many times multiple times per day... mmm. 
Even the hotel buffet breakfast (not normally a bastion of good food) had delicious French-style baguettes and cheeses in addition to Vietnamese breakfast staples like beef noodle soup.
Mmmm... pork belly.
The ubiquitous (and rightfully so) green mango and chicken salad.  Super fresh, crunchy, herby and spicy.

Hoi An:

Ridiculously crispy fried spring rolls made with a special web-like rice paper.


Hoi An specialties at Miss Ly restaurant... white rose shrimp dumplings called banh bao, plus fried wontons called hoanh thanh chien (we called them Vietnamese nachos) and fresh spring rolls.  

Ca phe sua da and a flakey chocolate croissant at Cargo Club?... don't mind if I do!

Pork satay and banh xeo (crispy rice pancakes) at Bale Well restaurant, a funny little fixed menu hole-in-the-wall down an alley.  The waitress was insistent on showing us how to properly roll the dish- first a piece of rice paper, then the pancake, then the satay, then the lettuce and herbs, roll and dip.  She would have fed us by hand if we had let her.  She also strangely refused to give Tim a canned beer- only bottled- despite the fact that we could see canned beer in the cooler nearby.  Regardless of the strange service, tasty food for super cheap!


Riverside mango mojito at Mango Mango... mmmm.


Riverside cao lau noodles on tiny stools (notice how the "table" is lower than Tim's knees)... cau lau is a Hoi An speciality using thick, chewy noodles, pork, lots of herbs and these little crunchy croutons.  Many folks claim that the noodles must be made from water from specific wells in Hoi An in order to achieve the best taste...

Hue:

Tasty rice patties with shrimp at Anh Binh restaurant (which may otherwise be resting on its laurels a little bit after a rave review in the Lonely Planet).
Delicious pork on lemongrass skewers to be wrapped in rice paper, plus garlicky morning glory at Nina's Cafe, a cute family-run restaurant essentially in someone's garage down an alley. 
Nuoc mia (sugarcane juice) just outside the walls of Hue's Imperial City.  On tiny, tiny chairs.  Like so tiny when you stand up, they come up with you, still attached to your butt.

Ho Chi Minh City:

Somehow I missed capturing a lot of the food from Ho Chi Minh City, but it was great... banh mi sandwiches, homemade mozzerella, more herbalicious salads...

Dreamy, dreamy pho at Pho Ly, a great little shop Tim found for us.